BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 (normal and Turbo) and Fysetc TMC2209 v3

Like any good maker, I like to buy the cheapest version of something that I can. If buying from two sources gets me something a few £s cheaper then thats what I’ll do.

What did I order?

I ordered an SKR v1.4 turbo (which has a 120Mhz processor compared to the standard 100Mhz processor) and 5 x Fysetc TMC2209 v3. Buying this combination saved me around £5, which in my eyes was worth it.

Whats the problem?

What I didn’t realise is that Fysetc had changed the pinout of the TMC2209 v3 from the earlier versions. This means that the jumper settings detailed on the SKR v1.4 page on aliexpress do not work. This results in a TMC connection error in Marlin and the inability to set the steps, current or use sensorless homing (which is a gimmick I know).

So what now?

Luckily I was able to find a fix for the issue. Even better is that no soldering or modification of the driver is required.

All that’s needed is to add the jumpers as shown (look for the green box) underneath each driver

No more TMC connection errors.


  1. Hey Jay Love your site and posts, I am waiting for my predator to come in the mail. I have a BMG extruder enroute , the pcb smart effector, haydn magball arms(440mm) , I bought a genuine e3d v6 with volcano nozzle, duet2 wifi, paneldue 7i , what else am I missing off my shopping list / what should I be pre printing?

    1. I would do some research on what cooling arrangement you want and make sure you get the right fans to go with it.
      I would look at printing the adaptors to allow the use of the PCB’s that come with the smart effector for Haydns magball arms.
      Also think about using RRF3 rather than RRF2. I have a bunch of config files on github to give you a headstart.
      In the long run, you’ll find that the print surface looses its stick. Something like one of these would do you. I’ve just got these for my new CoreXY printer and my Da Vinci Jr.
      Maybe consider an upgrade to 0.9 degree steppers? These would be suitable and I use them on my CoreXY.
      I would also recommend adding some form of camera. I use a cheap wifi security camera.
      And then depending on material you are going to print, think about adding an enclosure.
      Before you build it, make sure your belts are tensioned correctly and there is no slop in the carriage. I’ve just rebuilt my predator and had my first snapped belts. For reference, you need around 1750mm per axis. I have also recently changed the bottom idler from a smooth one to a 20T toothed idler (for 6mm belt) so maybe look at doing that during assembly.
      If you went for the ethernet version like I did, add a small extender so the port is on the side.
      And make sure you have an appropriate pair of crimpers, such as the engineer PA-09

  2. Holy shit.
    Thank you so much for this, you made my day!
    I’ve tried to get this exact setup (1.4 Turbo + FYSETC 2209 V3) running for a few days now.

    Now all I need is to get this BLTOUCH up and running… (I suppose that won’t take long though)

    Thanks again!

  3. in addition to the jumper under the drivers must also put the jumper on the two PIN above the driver? thanks

      1. Thanks for the reply! I have another question to make endstops work (I don’t want sensorless) which PIN should I cut or bend?

  4. Looks like I’ve got the same problem with my Geeetech TMC2208 drivers (they seem to have the same pin-out as the equivalent FYSETC drivers).

    I can’t work out how to get my jumper to sit across at a diagonal – did you use the same jumper for the diagonal or did you use a different one?

    Is it possible to change the PIN assignments in Marlin instead for a purely software solution?

    1. I bent the pins together slightly and then inserted the jumper. Once you get it started it should just push down.
      And this isn’t something you can adjust with software settings. This is a hardware problem.

  5. Hi Jay,

    Thanks for the info, My drives now work but sensorless homing wont. did you manage to get it to work with fysetc v3 drivers?

    1. Yes, I’ve had sensorless homing working with these drivers.
      This was with a test build of RRF3 for LPC thats due out soon. I haven’t tried with Marlin.
      I don’t typically use sensorless homing.

  6. Jay

    Thanks for the blog. Without guys like you the world would be an informationless mess. My question is: Is it necessary with the BTT SKR 1.4Turbo with the BTT TMC2209 V1.2 to still Jump or bend the pins? I have seen 2 separate set ups and I am trying to choose the correct path for my bastard Predator. I call it that because someone took everything but the frame and I am attempting to mend it into a viable printer. Just got word ANYCUBIC is no longer making any Deltas.

    1. I saw some posts somewhere that maybe inverting the endstop pins allows the 1.4 to be used without removing the pins from the driver but I haven’t tried it. Unless you’re planning to use sensorless homing (which isn’t recommended for a delta) or stall detection (which is pointless if you can’t use the physical endstop) I wouldn’t worry. If you really needed it back at some point, you could just run a jumper between the endstop signal input and the diag pin on the driver.
      And I’d not heard that about anycubic. I’ll be looking to sell my predator once my toolchanger is printing well enough. Trying to raise funds for a CNC.


    2. did it work for you? i have the same setup BTT SKR1.4 Turbo with BTT TMC2209 but neither the pin configurations mentioned in the Board manual nor what Jay recommended worked for me! what strange, is that those same TMC2209 i used before with BTT1.4 (not turbo) and they worked smoothly without any errors. could it be a faulty board?

      1. I’ve been testing sensorless homing with this driver in this configuration and it’s been working for me.

        1. i’ve removed the pin, that is used for sensorless homing, could it be the reason why your configurations are not working for me?

          1. you should still be able to configure the driver using UART i.e set the motor currents and microstepping.
            sensorless homing and stall detection won’t work with the pin removed

  7. I have the skr 1.4 pro with fysetec tmc2209 v 2.1, not the v3.0. Can anyone help me with the jumper arrangement for UART and sensorless homing?

  8. Hi I need some help with this drivers,I can’t get them to home with fisical endstops can anyone help me please?
    Skr 1.4 turbo with FYSETC TMC 2209 v2.1
    UART mode.

    1. Do you mean physical endstops?
      Have you either bent or removed the diag pin from the driver? The SKR 1.4 has no means of disabling sensorless homing so the driver has to be modified

  9. I assume the same goes for the SKR v1.3 board – as v 1.3 and v1.4 have similar pin assignment (as far as I remember) ?

  10. I have actually gotten the BTT TMC2209 to work on the x-axis for the skr 1.4 turbo board, with jumper installed normally for UART. But the y-axis won’t move as M119 shows it is constantly being triggered, despite the homing sensitivity being all the way down to 0. Any thoughts?

    1. Try changing these to 1

      #define X_ENABLE_ON 0
      #define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
      #define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
      #define E_ENABLE_ON 0

      Also, did you cut/bend the pin on the side?

  11. Does anybody know if this is still the case with SKR 2? I’m getting everything working in terms of the axis all move but also getting TMC CONNECTION ERROR with the V3.0 and the BTT recommended single jumper. Just wondering if anybody else has tried yet. I know there is now a V3.1 of this board that likely resolves the issues.

    1. I have the same setup SKR 2 and TMC2209 fysetc V3.0. Also getting TMC Connection error. The 2209’s worked fine on the SKR 1.4.

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